Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Style Is In The Details--Pocket Squares and Ties



I have been thoroughly enjoying my summer and taking break from things as much as possible.  But one thing that I cannot stop thinking about is Fall and cooler weather.  As the seasons change I look to layers as a key element of style and also function.  Part of that for me is also wearing ties since I can hardly stand to wear a tie in the dead of summer.  Layering a tie and shirt under a V-neck pullover and perhaps a jacket is one of my go to looks...dressy but not dressed up.  Another key element is the pocket square.  If I am wearing a jacket that chest pocket is going to have a pocket square in it, otherwise it just seems naked.  Also, ties and pocket squares are where you can show your personal style and add some interest to your look. 

I think that one of the reasons that guys get tripped up on ties and pocket squares is that there seem to be so many rules about them and how they fit in with your shirt.  The width of the lapel, style of collar, color and pattern of the shirt, width of the tie, knot, the pocket square, etc.  It is enough to make you want to not wear them at all, but fear not there are some simple things to remember that will keep you off the radar of the fashion police and on people's radar as a guy that knows how to look good. 

Pocket Square
1.  Your pocket square should complement your tie and shirt but not match them.  If you like the way it looks, rock on. 
2.  There are tons of ways to fold a pocket square but start off with a simple fold by folding it in half, then folding it over a few times (along the length)into a rectangle and then tuck it into your pocket.  This will look classic and you can never go wrong with this look.
3.  They are made in various sizes but most are 14-17 inches on each side.  Smaller ones don't rest as well in the pocket and don't look as good folded since they are skimpy on the amount of fabric
4.  Try ones made in cotton or wool as they fold more easily and don't slide down in the pocket like ones made of silk.

A nice collection of pocket squares can be fun to put together and doesn't have to cost a fortune either, but what you get back from them is hard to measure.
 
Pocket squares in wool are great textural elements.


Pocket squares are great for adding interest to a look without the formality of a tie.

This square keeps this jacket's colors in mind as well as working well with the shirt and tie.
Just a simple fold can be such a nice look to add that little bit of interest.


Ties
1.  The pattern of your tie and shirt should not have the same dimensions.  Pair large patterns with smaller ones.
2.  The main color of your tie should complement or be found in your shirt.  A mid blue shirt could be paired with an orange tie with white polka dots or a red and blue striped tie, it just depends on your taste.  Again, if you like the way it looks then rock on. 
3.  Try the four-in-hand knot for a classic "take you anywhere" knot.
4.  The width of your tie should work with the width of your jacket lapel so if you have a wide peak lapel double breasted jacket don't wear your skinny tie.
5.  Your tie should just reach your belt buckle, not below it or too much above it if at all. 

My assortment of ties isn't extensive but it gets the job done.  I like to use texture rather than bold patterns to do the trick.

These woven ties, or grenadine pattern, are my favorites.

Cotton and wool ties are a great alternative to silk and of course they have great texture and make a really nice knot.

Traditional or skinny width, it is up to you just keep in mind the width of your lapel.

Ties aren't just for wearing with jackets, they also look great under a sweater.

In this image and the one below it is obvious I like the combination of a gingham shirt under a solid navy jacket with a solid tie.  Hey, it's my thing.

 


That's it!  Now I am sure there are purists or bold dandies that would take me to task on those guidelines but hey this isn't about every single rule in the world.  That is what freaks guys out and makes them shy away from wearing them.  Start off within your comfort zone in anything and as you learn and get compliments you will want to learn more, and become bolder.  Personally I like ties that are more solid and rely on texture for my style details, but I secretly admire the guys that really know how to push the envelope when it comes to choosing their ties and pocket squares.  So hopefully this has inspired those of you that are uncomfortable with ties and pocket squares to embrace them if not on an every day basis to at least feel more confident when you do wear them. 

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  All of these images are courtesy of Brian Kelley/Imagine Photography/Brian's Style Guide and are protected by copyright law. None of these images may be used, edited, reproduced, transferred, published or distributed in any form or by any means whatsoever without prior written permission